by Kolbjørn Borseth of Aromantic
There are many good base oils and blended massage oils on the
market these days. However they may not be ideal for individual
skin types and conditions which require special blends of oils.
Tailor made massage oils are more like prescriptions than just
simple lubricants.
Massage oils are derived from either mineral oils (like Vaseline
or Paraffin) or vegetable oils which are sourced from natural
(preferably organic derivatives).
A lot of massage products contain mineral oils. They are
synthetic, have a long shelf life, give good lubrication but can
be very bad for the skin and body. They can create a thin film on
the surface of the skin, blocking the pores and preventing the
skin from functioning normally. Mineral oils do not contain any
vitamins and disturb or even stop the skin from being able to
absorb fat soluble vitamins. They are detrimental to the skin
with long-term use. Mineral oils appear to moisturize the skin
but in reality they suppress its normal, healthy functioning. The
skin then becomes 'dependent' on constant applications of mineral
oil which, in turn, result in a deterioration of the skin's
character and ability to keep itself healthy.
Vegetable fats and oils are readily absorbed by the skin and are
used to nourish (give energy to) the skin / body. They are needed
to create new cells and for other important processes in the
body. Most vegetable oils contain vitamins which are necessary
for the skin (such as pro A, D and E). They can stimulate the
skin to function better and create better circulation. They
soften the skin and make it pliable, helping it to retain its own
moisture more effectively. Vegetable oils contain the essential
fatty acids but can go rancid after a short time.
As a general guide, never use saturated fatty acids on people
with oily skin or large pores as the pores can be easily blocked
and enlarged. Coconut butter, Cocoa butter, Shea butter, Lard and
Macadamia nut oil contain high levels of saturated fatty acids
and should not be used for this skin type.
They are however good for other skin conditions, giving 'body' to
the massage oil and enhancing the lubrication. They also keep
well for a relatively long time extending the shelf life of your
products.
Vegetable oils with a lot of monounsaturated fatty acids like
Olive Oil, Avocado and Sweet almond oil provide good lubrication,
keep well and can nourish the skin.
Jojoba is an important ingredient in a massage blend as you can
massage for a long time with it. It is often known as a liquid
wax and is very protective on the skin. However it should never
be used on its own because it does not give nourishment for the
skin. It can keep for up to 5 years before it goes rancid.
The third group of fatty acids that are used are Polyunsaturated
fatty acids. These are often known as essential fatty acids as a
lack of them can lead to rashes, eczema and dry skin. They act
like a vitamin for the skin. Among these are Linoleic and
Linolenic acid. They need to be combined with e-vitamin oil to
prevent them from going rancid quickly. They are thin liquids
which are quickly absorbed by the skin. They are drier than other
fatty acids and reduce the size of skin pores. These are very
good for people with oily skin and large pores but can be used
with good results on all other skin conditions.
Vegetable oils which contain a lot of polyunsaturated fatty acids
are Sunflower oil, Borage oil (Starflower), Evening Primrose,
Grape Seed and Thistle Oil which is less expensive and of
excellent quality. As a rule, never buy Borage or Evening
Primrose oil without containing at least 0.5% E-vitamin oil,
otherwise it will go rancid within 6 months.
Recipes for Massage Oils
Dry Skin Massage Oil
10 g Coconut Butter
30 ml Olive Oil
20 ml Sweet Almond Oil
15 ml Jojoba Oil
5 ml Thistle Oil
2 ml E-Vitamin oil (100%)
17 ml Apricot Oil
Essential Oils as required
Melt the Coconut Butter in a bain marie and then add the
Vegetable Oils. Finally add the E-vitamin oil and essential oils.
Mature Skin Massage Oil
40 ml Macadamia Nut Oil
20 ml Apricot Oil
15 ml Thistle Oil
10 ml Borage Oil
13 ml Jojoba Oil
2 ml E-Vitamin Oil (100%)
Essential Oils as required
The classical vegetable oil for mature and dehydrated skin is
Macadamia Nut oil. We use Borage Oil instead of Evening Primrose
Oil as it contains double the amount of GLA (20-24%)
Massage Oil for Oily Skin and/or Acne
50 ml Thistle Oil
20 ml Jojoba Oil
10 ml Avocado Oil
15 ml Borage Oil
3 ml E-vitamin Oil (100%)
2 ml A-vitamin Palmitate (very good for acne)
Essential Oils as required
Massage Oil for Sensitive Skin
50 ml Apricot Kernel Oil
10 ml Sesame Oil
25 ml Peach Kernel Oil
5 ml Rosehip Oil
8 ml Shea butter Oil
2 ml E-vitamin Oil (100%)
Essential Oils
Apricot Kernel, Peach Kernel and Rosehip Oil are classic
vegetable oils for sensitive skin.
We never use Wheatgerm Oil in massage oil products because it
goes rancid quickly. We use food-grade E-vitamin oil instead
which will keep the oil fresh for 1.5 - 2 years.
Article reprinted with permission from http://www.aromantic.com
© Copyright Aromantic 2002-2004
About the Author:
Kolbjørn Borseth of Aromantic specialises in empowering people of
all levels in making their own highly effective natural skin care
products. Through his website customers are able to access many
free resources as well as being able to order all the raw
materials, equipment and know-how required to make aromatherapy
products, creams, shampoos, soaps and cosmetics.
Visit Kolbjørn's Natural Skin Care web site at:
http://www.aromantic.co.uk
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