by Kolbjørn Borseth of Aromantic
Raw Materials in Anti-perspirants and Deodorants
Aluminium Hydroxychloride (INCI Name: Aluminium Chlorohydrate) is
an aluminium salt which is used in most anti-perspirants. Its
salts act as a sweat inhibitor, closing off the skin's sweat
pores so the sweat is unable to come out. So far so good, but
closing off the body's most important secretory organ day after
day (sweating from the arm pits included) and with a substance
than can be irritating to the skin and is easily absorbed by
damaged skin, is not the best solution for our sweat problems.
We believe that the use of this salt can cause cancer. Another
product on the market that often claims to be natural are crystal
deodorants, and through investigations that I have done, people
selling them admit that they contain aluminum hydroxychloride
and I doubt that they are natural, but are in fact made in
factories.
A much safer raw material to use in deodorants and anti-
perspirants is farnesol. (INCI name: Farnesol). This is a
substance which occurs naturally in a number of essential oils,
for instance Palmarosa and Roman Chamomile oils. Farnesol kills
the bacteria which make sweat smell. It does not close off the
pores and does not prevent the secretion of sweat. Used at a
strength of approx. 1%. The effect lasts for 5-6 hours.
Another deodorant raw material which is safe to use is Lemon
Ester. (INCI Name: Triethyl Citrate BHT). This is found naturally
in cherries. It reduces the bacteria on the skin by making the
skin more acid. The best use in deodorant is to use 4- 5%
together with 1% Farnesol.
Farnesol and Lemon Ester in combination will not provide
protection for the whole day the way that aluminum will, but at
least they are safe to use.
Moisturizers
It is very important not only to use vegetable oils on the skin,
but to use moisturizing products like creams and lotions. We
have several different ingredients for this purpose and their
molecular structure enables them to retain water and bind it in
the skin.
Glycerin in products from normal High Street shops is usually
derived from animal fats. As a vegetarian myself, I don't want
to use that on my skin. The vegetable one that I personally work
with is as good, but it costs more. Propylene Glycol is a
moisturizer with arguable benefits. Personally I am not afraid
to use it, but you can choose between others.
Other moisturizers that are safe to use are Sorbitol, preferably
used in cleansers and peeling products. Carbamide crystals that
are both moisturizing and antiseptic are very good in foot and
hand creams.
Another product that is used very much is silk protein (INCI
name: Silk Amino Acid). This protects and strengthens the hair /
skin whilst helping it to retain its moisture. It can be used in
shampoos, conditioners and hair packs.
Silk is produced by silk worms that live on mulberry bushes. It
is a secretion from a gland on the silk worm which it spins into
cocoons. Silk amino acid is produced from dead silk worms. It is
therefore an animal based substance and silk worms have to die
for the silk to be extracted. (They are actually gassed to
death!) Fortunately we can use silk protein in products which
comes from marine algae called sea silk that gives the same
effect. Silk amino acid is used in creams, lotions, shampoos and
conditioners. They protect, soften and help to retain moisture in
the skin. In hair they act as a moisture retainer and also form a
film around the strands of hair to strengthen and protect them.
Silk amino acid also gives the hair more shine and makes it look
healthy.
Another fat and moisturizer is lanolin. (INCI name: Adeps lana).
In its dehydrated form is a light yellow, fatty, sticky mass
which smells slightly of sheep. Lanolin is formed in the same way
as sebum in humans - in glands in the sheep's skin which open
onto the strands of wool. The fat protects the wool and skin from
drying out, and from extremes of hot and cold and from bacteria.
Lanolin is extracted from the fleece after it is shorn.
Lanolin has the property of being able to bind water to itself.
In baby ointments / nappies it neutralizes the corrosive ammonia
of the urine through saponification whilst at the same time
protecting the skin.
Lanolin is the fatty substance most akin to the fat in our own
skin. It can help our skin to retain moisture and prevent it from
drying out. At the same time, it allows the skin to sweat and
breathe naturally. Some people are sensitive to lanolin. They can
develop small, red, itchy bumps which disappear within a day once
the use of lanolin has stopped. Unfortunately lanolin can be
contaminated with pesticides (DDT, lindan, dieldrin and endrin).
Sheep can be dipped or sprayed once or twice a year in pesticides
to kill off any insects living in their fleece. Minute quantities
of pesticide can be left behind in the lanolin. Pesticides are
easily absorbed by the skin, especially when combined with fats,
and are stored in the skin's fatty tissues. It is now possible to
obtain lanolin with very low pesticide content. This lanolin is
almost odorless.
Raw Materials for Sun Protection
Commonly used in sun protection products is Paba (INCI name:
Paba). Its full scientific name is para-amino-benzoic acid and it
is a water-soluble substance often referred to as B10 but which
has never been accepted as a vitamin. Paba is always produced
synthetically through simple chemical methods. One form of Paba
is used for sun protection as it provides an effective screen
against ultraviolet rays and thus prevents sunburn. Paba is also
used in the treatment of sunburn and vitiligo (pigment blotches).
It is stored in the outer layers of the skin. Not everybody
tolerates Paba. People with sensitive skins who react strongly to
sunlight by developing a rash, tenderness or swelling should not
use Paba as (for these people) it can cause eczema and light
sensitivity.
Paba is a nitrosamine forming agent that can cause cancer.
Research in Sweden links the chemically made sun blockers to skin
cancer. So the paradox is that they should prevent skin cancer
but they may also be the cause of it. So what is the alternative?
Fortunately, we have got an alternative raw material called
Tiosol (INCI name: Titanium Dioxide (and) Cocos nucifera).
Tiosol is a new sun screening substance produced on the basis of
old knowledge. It is based on the substance titanium dioxide, a
natural mineral which, like zinc oxide, has been used effectively
for a long time as a sun block (it reflects and absorbs ultra-
violet light). However, both have had the disadvantage that they
give an unsightly bluish-white colour to the skin. This problem
has been resolved by grinding the titanium dioxide to a grade
where visible light passes through it and the titanium white
becomes invisible on the skin. This blocks the ultra-violet light
even more effectively than the titanium dioxide of normal grade.
Tiosol screens out UVA, UVB and to a large extent UVC rays. It is
very easy to use, tolerates heating and can achieve a sun factor
of anywhere from 2-20. As already described, Tiosol consists of
finely ground titanium dioxide which is then mixed into liquid
coconut oil, 40% titanium dioxide and 60% coconut oil The coconut
oil is specially treated to remove the fatty acids that go
rancid. This enables long exposure to bright sunlight without the
cream going rancid. Tiosol is the safest sunscreen with the
broadest spectrum currently available on the market. It doesn't
have any side effects or cause allergies and it is easy to use.
You can also choose to use certain vegetables that have a natural
sun factor in them already. For example, you can use Coconut
butter/oil, and Shea butter or Shea butter oil. They have a sun
factor from 2 - 3, but do not use them on people with oily or
large pores. The other oils you can use for all skin conditions
are Sesame oil (sun protection factor 2 - 3) or Jojoba oil
(factor 4).
Article reprinted with permission from http://www.aromantic.com
© Copyright Aromantic 2002-2004
About the Author:
Kolbjørn Borseth of Aromantic specialises in empowering people of
all levels in making their own highly effective natural skin care
products. Through his website customers are able to access many
free resources as well as being able to order all the raw
materials, equipment and know-how required to make aromatherapy
products, creams, shampoos, soaps and cosmetics.
Visit Kolbjørn's Natural Skin Care web site at:
http://www.aromantic.co.uk
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